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When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.